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Tips from Barbara



1 - Always pre-shrink monk's cloth in hot water and a hot dryer.

2 - Pull a thread to mark cutting lines. Use this to make sure the fabric is even and when cutting the monk's cloth into smaller pieces ie; place mats, pillow tops, wall hangings, etc.

3 - There are four threads to a float, you only want to pick up two threads when making the 1/2 stitch. Place the bodkin under the entire float and pull it back until the float separates.

4 - Experiment! Make your own patterns.

5 - When I make block letters I start at the bottom and work upward turning the cloth side-ways. Starting with yarn on the inside of the letter,(leave about 5" of yarn as a tail. You will later weave this back into your work so no ends will show.). Pick up 3 floats, up one row, turn cloth and pick up 2 floats, up one row turn cloth pick up 3 floats and continue to height desired. When making the top of the letter pick up enough floats to balance the sides. Turn cloth and pick up the next row of floats back to the first side. Turn and pick floats to second side, down one row pick up 2 floats to second side, down one row pick up 2 floats turn, down one row pick up 3 floats turn. See example. When the letter is completed, weave your yarn back into your work so there are no ends or knots.

6 - I have found it easier to finish my yarn work before making the fringed ends.

7 - Use the threads you remove when making fringe to whip-stitch the side hems. These threads also make great "hair" dolls or stuffing for animals.

8 - It is much easier to "needle your yarn" then to try and thread the needle. Pull the yarn tightly over your bodkin, (or yarn needle), slip the bodkin out and push the eye onto the yarn and pull it through. This is demonstrated in the video.

9 - When I am making a large afghan I fold the monk's cloth into an accordian ie; over, under, over, under, to where I am working. This allows me to quickly lift it off my lap and lay it across a chair when I'm called away.

10 - I always like to make a border at the ends of my afghan before the fringe line. It helps to hide the zig-zag line of the machine. When away from modern conveniences I have used the borders to keep the fringe from pulling out my work and stopping the fringe but you must lock the yarn to the cloth by sewing it sideways not across. ie: turn cloth, (this will take alot of yarn.), down 3 floats, up two floats, down 3 floats, up two, etc., to other side.

11 - My hints for finding the middle of your fabric is a simple straight line stitched completely acrossed the Monk's cloth and the floats counted, then mark the center with pin or yarn[exact center can be found by stitching a line the length of cloth and count]. When finished, this first line is pulled out or left for your first row. I always use the yarn I pull to make fringe as the thread to whip stitch the hems of my afghans. I do make up my own patterns as well as follow instructions from the printed patterns. When working from a pattern the first time I couldn't get the count right until it dawned on me I was counting the yarn not the floats in the pictures[the blank spaces are the floats]duh!!













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